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Hong Kong, Macao and Shenzhen may be renowned for shopping and restaurants. However, hidden in the dazzling shopping malls and buzzing restaurants are also cultural heritages that deserve exploration. In a series starting this week, Shenzhen Daily columnist James Baquet will guide you through the vibrant city life with a glimpse of the quiet spiritual world of these cities.
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James Baquet
WHEN scholars speak of Chinese religions, they often define them in terms of the “sanjiao”: the “three teachings” of Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism.
Taoism is based on the teachings of Laozi (Lao Tse). However, the “philosophical Dao” of the book “Daode Jing” (“Tao Te Ching”) has become mixed with the other religions and, with the hopes and needs of the everyday people, had formed what I call the “fourth jiao,” that of folk religion.
The Taoist temples described in this and the next few articles are really sites of folk religion, where people go to pray for success in exams, the conception of a child, or healing of illness. These are usually vibrant, living shrines creating focal points in many communities.
Let’s look at four such temples in the Hong Kong SAR. One of these will be a typically compact urban temple, another, a sprawling suburban complex and the last two, small, simple halls in rural villages.
First, Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road in Central was founded in 1847.
Entering the main hall, you first notice the “spirit door,” placed to avert bad feng shui. Walking around it, you’ll see the large incense coils bought by donors, which burn for approximately two weeks. They hang in what was once an open court yard. When covered, as here, it’s called an “incense tower.”
On the main altar are the temple’s two gods, Man and Mo.
Man (in Mandarin Wen ) is Wen Chang, patron of scholars. He also represents the civil authorities. Parents ask him to ensure their children’s academic success and students make offerings to him before important exams.
Mo (in Mandarin Wu ) is a term meaning martial, as in martial arts. This is Guan Yu, a historical figure whose story forms part of the novel “The Romance of Three Kingdoms.” He is patron of soldiers and police officers; indeed, his image is found in most Hong Kong police stations. (Ironically, he is also venerated by criminals.)
So these two, Man Mo together embrace all aspects of public life: civil, educational, military, public safety, and more.
In the main hall, you’ll also find figures of Hong Kong’s “City God,” the Ten Judges of the Underworld and other popular figures. In the hall next door is Guan Yin, borrowed from Buddhism, and Tai Sui, 60 small statues, each representing one year of the Chinese Zodiac. Finally, in the westernmost hall, there is a temple shop and stalls for fortune tellers.
This temple has been under the authority of the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals since 1908. Profits from the sale of incense and fortunes, as well as donations, go toward the operation of hospitals and schools in Hong Kong.
Next, let’s head out to Wong Tai Sin, located next to the MTR station of the same name. Built originally on Hong Kong Island to serve a private organization in 1915, it was moved to Kowloon in 1921. In 1956 it opened to the public. The 1973 main altar was recently demolished to make way for a newer, larger structure, to be completed in 2011.
Wong Tai Sin (in Mandarin Huang Da Xian) means the Great Immortal Huang. He was a shepherd who found the secret of immortality on Jinhua Mountain in Zhejiang Province. Since then, he has become known primarily for his healing powers.
An interesting aspect of Chinese culture is found embodied in the grounds. In ancient teaching there are five elements: earth, fire, water, wood, and metal. These are manifested in (from front to rear of the property): the Earth Wall, built in 1938; the Yue Heung Shrine, housing the Lamp-Lighting Buddha, a predecessor to the historical Buddha; the Yuk Yik Fountain with seven sculpted lotuses; the General Office and library, largely built and decorated with wood; and the Bronze Pavilion, representing Wong Tai Sin’s private study.
Other halls, large and small, dot the property, as well as numerous gardens and fountains. The largest and perhaps most noticeable structure on the grounds is the hall that houses around 200 oblation and soothsayers stalls. Several of these can, for a price, purport to tell your future in English.
Like Man Mo, this temple supports numerous charitable works in Hong Kong, including more than schools, clinics, and elderly care.
Finally, a trip to the countryside. In the far northwestern reaches of the New Territories, not far from the Shenzhen Bay Checkpoint, is the Ping Shan Heritage Trail. Along this 1-kilometer village stroll are two small temples.
The first, Yeung Hau, is dedicated to a deity also known as Hau Wong, who accompanied the boy emperor, last of the Song Dynasty, to Kowloon. Since then, he has been helping all who call on him.
The temple is one of the simplest I’ve seen. No wall, no grounds, just an open-fronted, three-bay hall in a grassy meadow, with a single altar table out front. Yeung Hau is in the central bay. To the left is Kam Fa (Jin Hua), who helps expectant mothers, while to the right is To Tei (Tu Di), the local Earth God. The foundation of the temple is said to date back several hundred years.
Farther along the trail is Hung Shing (Hong Sheng) Temple, dedicated to a Tang Dynasty governor of Guangdong Province. The temple is in the two-hall, one-courtyard style. Unlike Man Mo and most of the other, similar temples in Hong Kong, the courtyard has not been covered. It remains open to the sky, allowing light to stream in and incense smoke to stream out.
According to my sources, there are hundreds of temples of all kinds in Hong Kong, from apartment-based private group shrines to major tourist attractions. We have only scratched the surface here, offering a taste of the rich heritage to be found in the Hong Kong SAR.